Saturday 30 July 2011

Yorkshire Dales Walk 5: Around Malham






Date: Thursday 28th July 2011
Route: Malham Tarn to Malham Cove then through Malham Village and on to Janet's Foss and Gordale Scar, then back over the moors to the Tarn
Distance: 6.25 miles (though this might not include the Gordale Scar section, which is a mile)

One of the most spectacular and understandably popular walks in the Dales, this circuit around Malham appears in slightly different forms in various walk books. We opted for the route suggested in the AA 1001 Walks In Britain, which starts and ends by Malham Tarn (a free car park alongside the highest lake in England on a breathtaking country road above the village of Malham).

The Pathfinder Guide suggests a version that starts and ends in the village of Malham, where there is a large car park and visitor centre, however this includes some uphill/ waterfall scrambling and a strong likelihood of getting wet at Gordale Scar, which we found pretty off-putting (walking is supposed to be enjoyable, right?!).

From Malham Tarn the Pennine Way heads into a quiet rocky valley, descends and eventually emerges onto the strange landscape of limestone boulders (or grikes) above Malham Cove, immediately (and topically) recognisable to anyone who has seen Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows, Part 1. This flat rocky area, with cracks between the rocks, is not just a unique and slightly alien landscape, it is also a fantastic place to sit down and drink in the spell-binding views of the surrounding rolling green hills. Even if you don't normally click on any of the links in this blog, try the Malham Cove link above for a fantastic clip from The Trip with Steve Coogan having the place ruined for him.

Then it's down again (400 steps!) to the bottom of the cliff and Malham Cove, an immense rock face, from which the trickle of water doesn't seem big enough to justify the size of the river that flows alongside the straightforward and very busy path into the village.

Many visitors don't get any further than the Cove and the pubs of Malham, but the path to Janet's Foss is an easy, flat and very pleasant track alongside a beck that leads into shady woodland and winds up to the Foss itself, a waterfall where leaping fish can occasionally be seen.

Once out of the woods, the walk detours slightly to take in Gordale Scar (more spectacular falls in the midst of rocky cliffs), before returning to the road and starting the trip back to Malham Tarn (or Water Sinks, as the car park is also known). There is a snack van in the layby near Gordale Scar, should you feel the need for urgent refreshments/ ice cream.

Having come so far down, inevitably there is a need to climb again and this all kicks off once you leave Gordale Scar. Thankfully this is all on easy-to-follow paths and the climbing is not horrifically steep, but you will be definitely be pleased to make it to the ladder stile on top of the hill that sets you on the path back over the hillside and down again! The views at this point are all pretty breathtaking (the photos don't really do them justice).

The moorland section is very clear but quite exposed; after a short while the path dips down to join up with some small ponds then heads right to rejoin the car park at the Tarn.

Fantastic walking, great sights and amazing views - a highly recommended walk.


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