Yorkshire Dales: Around Arkengarthdale

Date: Monday 16th September
Route: Arkengarthdale Circular
Distance: 3.5 miles

Staying in the village of Langthwaite in the Yorkshire Dales, we are lucky enough to have a great walk around the most northerly of the Dales on our doorstep.

Taken from the AA's 1001 Walks in Britain, the full route is an 8 mile circuit - unfortunately the lure of dry clothing and hot tea is too strong to resist once we are only half way round, so we just complete the first few sections!

Like many Dales walks, this one starts with a steep climb, which quickly makes its impact felt on both our calves and lungs - luckily, it is not long before the punishing ascent is rewarded with views across broad green hillsides, dotted with stone cottages, patches of heather and dry stone walls.

The bright green of the hillsides contrasts with a sky that alternates between piercing blue and threatening grey, as vertical waves of rain blow across and away and rainbows light up the houses below.

Once past the humorously-named hamlet of Booze, the path passes through the remnants of the lead mining industry littered across the hills, with the fast-flowing stream of Slei Gill down to the right. After a few minutes of brushing aside waist-high prehistoric-looking ferns, the path crosses the stream and heads up onto the heathery (and very windy) moorland hillsides.

Along the route we encounter cautious rabbits, which run off into their warrens or disappear into the heather, unhurried grouse, which reluctantly fly up into the air with much flapping and shrieking and flocks of finches, which dart in and out of the trees and hedgerows. We do not see any other walkers in the remote and quiet landscape.

The final section of the walk that we complete is very exposed and open to the cold, stinging wind - as the driving rain continues to assault us, we feel like proper southern softies heading for warmth and comfort rather than raging against the elements (but we are on holiday, after all).

Great views, lots of wildlife, a relatively straightforward route (with a few slightly ambiguous walk directions) through a remote and beautiful location - just not the best of weather, unfortunately.