Yorkshire Dales: Classic Swaledale

 

Date: Wednesday 18th September
Route: Keld to Muker and back
Distance: 6 miles

This is simply one of the best walks in the Dales.

It makes you want to stride along, grinning and shouting "In't walking BRILLIANT?!" in the style of Fast Show-era Paul Whitehouse. Or to exclaim about the beauty of the views so much that you start to sound like one of those drippy female characters from P.G. Wodehouse that Bertie Wooster occasionally finds himself engaged to.

Either way, this walk makes you feel ridiculously happy to be out in the midst of an awe-inspiring landscape, walking over green hillsides with the constant presence of the fast-flowing River Swale down to your side.

The walk comes from the AA's 1001 Walks in Britain, which in an uncharacteristic fit of hyperbole rightfully describes it as a classic. For a more challenging version, the Pathfinder Yorkshire Dales Guide offers a longer alternative - 10.5 miles, starting and  ending in the village of Gunnerside.

Leaving the car park in the village of Keld, the path soon meets up with the Pennine Way. It is a steady, but not exhausting, climb on a well-maintained, well-trodden path, taking little time to reach a reasonable height, with views across the sprawling hills of Swaledale.

The path passes through greenery and rock-strewn fields, punctuated by sheep, dry stone walls and the occasional gate. On some of these walks, the instructions are pretty complicated, occasionally confusing and sometimes completely wrong - on this walk, there is very little opportunity to take the wrong route or stray off the path.

As the Pennine Way heads back to the right, the village of Muker is visible below - a cluster of houses built out of local stone, on either side of the road from Richmond to Kirkby Stephen. The tea-room at Muker provides a timely opportunity to refuel with a toasted teacake before heading back to Keld on the other side of the river.

The return journey begins at low level, with a brief section alongside the river, before crossing it on a narrow footbridge. The river is a constant on your left as you follow the easy, broad track back to Keld and whilst you do not ever reach the heights of the first half of the walk, there is enough uphill walking to make you feel that you are getting some benefit - and excellent views.

The final stretch of walk passes waterfalls feeding into the river, then it is a short stroll back to the car.

In short: amazing scenery and views, particularly when the sunlight hits the river or illuminates the distant hills, an easy-to-follow route, a fantastic teacake stop and 6 miles of the best walking in the Dales. Perfect.